From her first millinery shop, opened in 1912, to
the 1920s, Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel rose to become one of the premier
fashion designers in Paris, France. Replacing the corset with
comfort and casual elegance, her fashion themes included simple
suits and dresses, women's trousers, costume jewelry, perfume and
textiles.
She claimed a birthdate of 1893 and a birthplace of Auvergne; she
was actually born in 1883 in Saumur - her mother worked in the
poorhouse where Gabrielle was born, and died when Gabrielle was only
six, leaving her father with five children whom he promptly
abandoned to the care of relatives.
She adopted the name Coco during a brief career as a cafe and
concert singers 1905-1908. First a mistress of a wealthy military
officer then of an English industrialist, she drew on the resources
of these patrons in setting up a millinery shop in Paris in 1910,
expanding to Deauville and Biarritz. The two men also helped her
find customers among women of society, and her simple hats became
popular.
Soon she was expanding to couture, working in jersey, a first in
the French fashion world. By the 1920s, her fashion house had
expanded considerably, and her chemise set a fashion trend with its
"little boy" look. Her relaxed fashions, short skirts, and casual
look were in sharp contrast to the corset fashions popular in the
previous decades. Chanel herself dressed in mannish clothes, and
adapted these more comfortable fashions which other women also found
liberating.
In 1922 Chanel introduced a perfume, Chanel No. 5, which became
and remained popular, and remains a profitable product of Chanel's
company. Pierre Wertheimer became her partner in the perfume
business in 1924, and perhaps also her lover. Wertheimer owned 70%
of the company; Coco Chanel received 10% and her friend Bader 20%.
The Wertheimers continue to control the perfume company today.
Coco Chanel introduced her signature cardigan jacket in 1925 and
signature "little black dress" in 1926. Most of her fashions had a
staying power, and didn't change much from year to year -- or even
generation to generation.
She briefly served as a nurse in World War I. Nazi
occupation meant the fashion business in Paris was cut off for some
years; Chanel's affair during World War II with a Nazi officer also
resulted in some years of diminished popularity and an exile of
sorts to Switzerland. In 1954 her comeback restored her to the first
ranks of haute couture. Her natural, casual clothing including the
Chanel suit once again caught the eye -- and purses -- of women.
She introduced pea jackets and bell bottom pants for women. She was
still working in 1971 when she died. Karl Lagerfeld has been chief
designer of Chanel's fashion house since 1983.
In addition to her work with high fashion, she
also designed stage costumes for such plays as Cocteau's Antigone
(1923) and Oedipus Rex (1937) and film costumes for
several movies, including Renoir's La Regle de Jeu. Katharine
Hepburn starred in the 1969 Broadway musical Coco based on
the life of Coco Chanel.
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Bibliography
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- Berman, Phyllis and Zina Sawaya. "The billionaires behind
Chanel." Forbes, 1989.
- Brower, Brock. "Chez Chanel: Couturiere and courtesan, Coco
made her own rules as she freed women from old fussy, frilly
fashions." Smithsonian, July 2001.
- Kennett, Frances. Coco: the life and lives
of Gabrielle Chanel.
- Madsen, Axel. Chanel: a woman of her own.
1991.
- Richards, Melissa. Chanel: key collections.
2000.
- Wallach, Janet. Chanel: her style and her
life. 1998.
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On this site
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Coco Chanel on the Web
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Coco Chanel's designs helped set the fashion tone
for the 20th century. Find biographies and other information about
one of the best-known designers especially in the 1920s and 1950s.
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Coco Chanel: "Time 100" feature includes 3-page biography,
audio of Chanel's voice, photos, a basic timeline and a fun quiz.
- Chanel:
Chanel's official website, including Shock Wave clips of new
collections. Requires Shock Wave to use the site.
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Chanel: This history of
the designer house Chanel features Coco Chanel as a "great name in
French haute couture."
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Coco Chanel: Innovator and Icon: The Woman Behind
the Designs: biography from Aime Joseph,
emphasizing her fashion contributions
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Chanel Myth: 1997 article
on the way that Coco Chanel's myth was created and promoted.
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The House that Coco Built:
more on the business of fashion.
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Chanel, the Couturier, Dead in Paris: Copy of the obituary
for Coco Chanel which ran in the New York Times at the time of
her death.
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January 25, 1971: Copy of
the obituary for Coco Chanel which ran in Time at the time of her
death.
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About Coco Chanel
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- Fashion Designer: little black dress, Chanel
suit, Chanel jacket
- France, Switzerland
- 20th century
Text
copyright 1999-2006 ©
Jone Johnson Lewis.
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